48 degrees and climbing by the time we finally made it to Desert Camp at Sossusvlei. Timeless, vast open spaces and mountainous dunes of baked red and orange sand stretch out in every direction, simply breathtaking!
The Namib, widely believed by scientists to be the world’s oldest desert at over 55 million years old, is also home to the towering sand dunes of Sossusvlei, the world’s highest.
The air is dry and the temperature soaring. Nothing moves out there in the dazzling heat of the mid afternoon sun except a lone lizard eyeing me lazily from the deck as I relax in the cooler interior of the tented camp.
We had arrived at Desert Camp the day before, after a 4 hour drive from Windhoek, Namibia’s capital city. After a quick stop for supplies at Rehoboth, a small town enroute, we headed over the mountains and the harrowing Deadman’s Pass, a killer track which caused considerable anxiety for me on the return trip as the car struggled to ascend the steep winding escarpment. Yikes!
Apart from the upsetting sight of a dead ostrich in the middle of the road, the victim of some thoughtless speeding motorist no doubt, we saw little else except springbok for miles until a closer look at the map showed that we were almost at our destination.
I loved the luxury of Desert Camp’s “camping” experience which felt more like “glamping” with tents – on a concrete foundation, partially walled, with beds, good quality linen and an impressive zip up fully fitted outdoor kitchen, luxury bathroom and canvas-type tent cover. In keeping with low impact sustainable tourism initiatives for which the area is well known, tent structures blend seamlessly into the colours of the ever changing red, ochre, brown landscape.
A magnificent sunset set the scene for sundowners from the comfort of the deck and a drop in temperature by a few degrees.
That night under an unforgettably clear starlit sky, we enjoyed a simple meal of fillet steak, baked potatoes and bread braaied on a charcoal fire while sipping on an excellent South African red and an after dinner Amarula Cream liqueur.
The stillness of the camp with only one other tourist there, made me feel like I was standing at the edge of the world with the only sightings being that of a lovely large owl and a lonely looking jackal who kept his distance. The desert can be a treacherous place after dark and the temperature dropped sharply after sunset.
After a great night’s sleep, it was time for the highlight of my stay – a hot air balloon ride over the desert at sunrise!
We were driven to the site on the back of a safari truck together with ten other tourists from Germany, Belgium, South Africa and the UK picked up from game lodges along the way.
We watched as the tour team worked on getting our balloon gradually inflated. The balloonist, a Belgian who had settled in Namibia some years earlier as a tour operator regaled us with tales of the desert and what we could expect next.
There is nothing quite like a laid back balloon ride at sunrise. As we gently glided along, the shapes and contours of predawn gave way to the light filled beauty of the red sand dunes below. A remarkable feature of the Namib are the thousands of mysterious looking fairy circles imprinted on the earth, clearly visible from the air.
No-one knows for sure what caused them although one popular theory is that the circles were created by termites eating away at the seeds of grass millions of years ago. The view of the top of the highest dunes was extra-ordinary with the whole landscape before us changing colour constantly.
Post balloon ride we were treated to another highlighy a gourmet champagne breakfast at our landing spot. Unforgettable, and done with finesse especially the champagne bottle tops hacked off with machetes. Nice touch out in the middle of nowhere!
Namibia and the Namib were must see places on this “off the beaten track” traveller’s bucket list. I highly recommend this experience.
Glossary:
*braai* a South African word for bbq
*glamping* slang for diva-like or glamour camping
“machete” a long handled bushknife
Photography all rights reserved – @Angeltrekker